Fixed Surveillance: During the day, you’ll want to set up your surveillance cameras. Most investigations will begin with an interview of witnesses and other research into the area or building where the hauntings or sightings have occurred. Through this research, you can identify “hot spots” or areas that seem to be most active. The best evidence is something captured on video. Depending on where you are, running cables back to your base camp is going to be tricky and maybe expensive, not to mention a tripping hazard when you’re walking around in the dark. So, for your fixed cameras, I’d go with the Nest Cam Indoor Security Camera. The link is to a three-pack to make it easy to set up in more than one place. With these, you can live-stream multiple cameras to mobile devices like tablets in full HD and save video to a cloud service. Beyond that, though, is the ability to have two-way communication so you can speak to the apparition without being there, or your colleagues if they are near. They can also be set to activate by motion or sound—ideal for ghost hunting.
Mobile Surveillance: Now that your surveillance is set up, you’ll need something more mobile to take with you. Small, lightweight, and easy to handle, this Bell & Howell camcorder, critically, has IR night vision that you can use to navigate in the dark—simply walk around using the flip-out screen to reveal furniture, doors, and the occasional creepy dolls. The night vision works via IR so the back-up light I mentioned earlier will provide additional illumination to capture whatever might manifest itself.
#5, #6 & #7: Temperature Fluctuations
FLIR: One of the oddest and most distinct ways to identify when a ghost has appeared is a noticeable, if not drastic, drop in ambient room or air temperature. Just as with many facets of the supernatural, there is a great deal of speculation as to why this happens, but the most widely held belief is tied to the one I mentioned above: Ghosts need energy to show themselves, so they may take the energy right out of the air. Since this phenomenon is usually fairly localized, a recording device that measures temperature will be a key piece of gear. FLIR, or Forward Looking Infra-Red, does just this.
The first of your two options here is the FX Camera. The one linked here is a kit, which gives you two cameras with multiple mounting options for each: Dash mount so you can record your trip to the site and get your discussions on camera, a pedestal so you can use one as an extra fixed camera, and an action-cam housing so you can wear the FLIR during your hunt. The cameras allow you to see the temperatures of the room, objects, and anything else in gradient color: Blue is cold, Red is hot, so you’ll be able to “see” and record the temperature changes, helping you to zero-in on active zones.
The second option is a small unit, FLIR Scout TK Thermal Monocular. With similar functionality to the previous cam, but in a much smaller and easier to handle form factor, you get options for how hot and cold zones are displayed, with simple USB connectivity to a PC to download any still images and video you capture. Its wide -4 to 104-degree operating temperature, and IP-67 dust- and waterproof rating, make it ideal for ghost hunting in less-than-ideal weather.
If you gave your FLIR to your friend and are the one using the camcorder, the simplest way to measure ambient air temperature is with a digital thermometer. This one from Kaiser not only has a small form factor for mobility, but it has an alarm function with High/Low limits so you don’t have to constantly look at it to know when the temp is falling, and minimum/maximum temperature memory so you know exactly what the variation was later, during analysis. You can also set this up in view of the surveillance cameras for even more remote monitoring and evidence gathering.